Berlin, Germany (Gastrosofie). Imagine it could work here: The renaissance and reinterpretation of classic French cuisine on a menu, in a restaurant, by a Chef de Cuisine? Well it does, and in what an exquisite way!
Since 2011, under the direction of Chef de Cuisine Felix Mielke, Cuisine française, the national cuisine of France, is experiencing a renaissance and a reinterpretation in the German capital. That the native Berliner trusts himself to be able in coping this fine cuisine is remarkable. But once learnt, never forgotten: Mielke has that experience, coming from Ritz Carlton and Le Provençal.T
While the entrees, including scallops, goose liver, smoked catfish, wild boar and beef ribs, same as the soups, currently a hearty lobster bisque with pepper caramel, lobster, lardo (particularly mature, fat bacon) and almond plus an exquisite parsley-lemon velouté with lemon chicken, are presented for connoisseurs of Cuisine française profound in French style, Mielke sets two lines when it comes to main dishes.
No question: Mielke shows in the kitchen a clear edge. And to the waiters a clear card that the gourmet restaurant Le Faubourg reflects: black and white, the main courses of the evening menu split up in tradition and nouveau. Mielke promises: “We prepare the traditional dishes in a traditional way, in a well known way with classic ingredients.” No experiments!
They are served on white plates. In the case of beef, it’s the breast to which a carrot dabs paint, Porto Bello, red wine, bacon. The roast pork with plum, Jerusalem artichoke, chestnut and cabbage is delicious. Even the sea bass with barley risotto, onion, herbs, and carrots is worthwhile to admire on the plate before being submersed under and behind the palate.
Skrei, or winter cod, which offers particularly lean, aromatic and solid white meat, is currently coming from the kitchen. It is served with mushroom, cabbage, bread and sour cream. Excellent!
Vegetarians choose barley risotto. And explorers choose Nouveau. Modern approaches, the latest findings from the cookery come to merits in this cuisine. Mielke puts it as “exciting combinations”, “experimental cuisine” and “modern interpretations”.
We are curious. Did not George Clooney, Catherine Deneuve and Gérard Depardieu get white plates? If so, they got the line Nouveau. Beef is currently offered as sirloin and heart with celery, bean and smoke. The pig is with cheek and chin, plus rutabaga, mandarin, broccoli and black garlic. Great. The sea bass is faced with pumpkin, curry, lemongrass, a date and Pak Choi. This is not classic, but delicious. And what about the Skrei? Parsnip and tigernut, citrus and buckwheat join the fine fillet from Norway. The vegetarian dish is called Porto Bello and is a special mix of mushroom and cabbage, bread and sour cream.
And now hold on tight: A 3-course meal in the evening onto the night costs currently 49 euros, a 5-course 69 euros. If these prices for all those goodies including a pleasant and casual service in a no frills ambience are not favourable, then nothing is!
Chef de Cuisine Felix Mielke is down to earth as well as innovative by offering a renaissance and reinterpretation of French cuisine in the Le Faubourg restaurant in Berlin, so his team serves classic and modern French cuisine with the best meat and fish from the region being accompanied by selected French and German wines. Bon appetit! Santé!
Augsburger Str. 41, 10789 Berlin
Phone: +49 (0) 30 8009997700, E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from noon to 11 pm, Sundays from 6 pm to 11 pm.
Christopher Prescott based on a text by Jean Camus.