Berlin, Germany (Gastrosofie). If we from Gastrosofie are invited to a nursery (for plants), or garden centre, then it’s not because of horticulture, but for culinary culture. This is what it is all about in the Berlin restaurant “Gärtnerei” that lives up to a name, as the dishes and plates that come out of the kitchen are served with lots of groceries and green as guests could expect at a place like here.
The dining room, which also includes a small golden bar, makes quite a green impression, but has next to seats in mint to moss green rather more earthy colours. The floor and the tables are in dark brown, the walls generally white, almost beige. But flowers from a nursery garden certainly occur, either small and fine or of large and noble array. Latter sets the style for this quite noble restaurant with fine food, which the Berlin restaurateur Bernhard Hötzl treats himself with: for one his Gärtnerei on the Torstraße corner Gärtnerstraße, and his Fleischerei on Schönhauser Allee.
There are still a few old-established residents around Gärtnerei, but more and more Yuppies, Berlin bohemians and low-budget tourists are making their way up along Torstraße and around.
To start with we take a Gärtnerei Spritz, a Vermouth Rosé of the Berlin brand Belsazar with Crémant Brut as an aperitif. Pearls magnificently and brings us Gastro-Philosophers and those who want to get the feeling into high spirits.
Guests can choose between a menu of three, four and five courses at random. A culinary journey could start with a gardener salad with nut crunch, quinoa and avocado as well as blossoms on top. Being a vegan, you would then carry on with Brandenburg kimchi plus some shiitake mushrooms, coriander and coconut milk rice or watermelon with Jerusalem artichoke, wild herbs and green sauce. A crunchy hen so called “Goldbroiler”, succulent and crispy out of the Paderborn country chickens in October, is a good choice for the non-vegans, together with potatoes and herb sauce. If you do not like broiler chicken, fish could be something for you. The fish of the day would be served with sea beans cream, kohlrabi, peach and green lentils.
Wines from Austria as on the list are best to accompany the meal. How about those by Toni Hartl from Lake Neusiedl, or the winery Gager from the Mittelburgenland region or the winery Franz and Christine Netzl from the area of roman Carnuntum?
Sweet lettuce with passion fruit, white chocolate and hazelnut dust as well as cheese from Blomeyers with onion jam, pickled cucumber and house bread are on the menu for dessert. Mocha or espresso and as for wine a Riesling Beerenauslese 2015 from the winery Schwarzböck in the Weinviertel go well with the dessert. If you prefer cheese, stick to the red.
Whatever is on the table at Gärtnerei is usually seasonal and fresh, but not necessarily regional, but above all good its contemporary German cuisine with an elegant touch, visually appealing served in a stylish setting.
Adress: Torstrasse 179, 10115 Berlin
More info in the web: www.gaertnerei-berlin.com
Phone: 030 24631450
Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays from 6 pm, closed on Sundays
Christopher Prescott – text based on an article by Stefan Pribnow.