Berlin, Germany (Gastrosofie). It is one of the best restaurants of Berlin: The „Fisherman Fritz“ is at the Regent’s hotel in the gendarme’s market (Gendarmenmarkt). In the middle of the capital a mastercook serves brilliant culinary achievements.
The menu is as exclusive as the atmosphere in the dining room. High covers, wooden walls and right in the middle amiable and at the same time winning boss de Cuisine, Christian Lohse who served to me and my colleague from the respected editorial staff canteen, his crispy baked Onsenei with Chanterelles, framed sauce of dry stone mushrooms, puree of cauliflower and lemon salt, and many other gourmet surprises while talking laid-back about the secrets of his kitchen philosophy.
In addition we drank the 2011th Chardonnay ‚R‘ from the vineyard “Ökonomierat Rebholz” from the Palatinate. His „Oeuf Onsen Et Chanterelles“, his baked Demeter Onsenei with autumn trumpets, tarragon and foamed lobster sauce is highly recommendable as mentioned above.
An “Autumn-trumpet”, by the way, is a mushroom which the vernacular calls “fungus of Death”, which is quite an original name when you eat in a restaurant. We know this dish from the French kitchen as “Lobster Bisque”: The creamy, tasty, delicately fragrant, extensive and intensive super-soup existed once of a lot of venison, mainly from wild fowl, however, because the wild continuance went to reason, lobster is in it today.
The next chapter: Carpaccio of the halibut and salad of fennel, green olives and Burrata. This fine fish comes with a glass of 2012th “Ipfhöfer Kronsberg”, a fine Silvaner, from the vineyard Wirsching in Franconia. Magnificent.
Peak of the main food is the stewed sea bass – from the depths of the seven seas (Norway?) and not from the depths of the freezer – with Escabèche vegetables which swam after a short while in a 2012th Grüner Veltliner “Renner” from the vineyard Schloß Gobelsburg from the Austrian Kamptal. The brilliant cheek of the Duroc Pork „Szegediner Style“ bonded nicely with a 2011 Syrah of the vineyard Weninger. These two fit excellently, because „Szegediner” is an old hungarian stew, a good goulash with sauerkraut and sour cream. And this Syrah comes from there, somewhere near the lake Sopron in Hungary. Though the Duroc pork comes from the USA the liaison with the Hungarian wine is utmost felicitous.
A dessert wine of 2010, a late harvest cuvée from vineyard “Kracher” from Burgenland in Austria is a wonderful sweet and subtle experience. It consists of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Riesling and is a wonderful companion on the trip to the sweet final: freshly faltered cream chocolate of the morning, jellied lemon juice and Macadamia splits with bitter-sweet artichoke-ice cream as well as marinated water melon, wild herbs and cocao spice, sorbet of yoghurt, garden cucumbers and olive honey. With all kinds of Ahs and Ohs we acclaim the sublime sweetness of these final notes.
After all it was a wonderful experience with a charming host. We will go there again pretty soon. Accompanied by classical sounds (from an unknown piano musician) combined with culinary lusciousness (from the well-known chef) in the fisherman Fritz.
Actually the doors are open Thursday to Saturday from 19 to 23 o’clock. Here is a hyperlink to the topical map for the „business lunch“ called midday meal in the fisherman Fritz. http://www.fischersfritzberlin.com/7.0.html?&L=0