Naturgut Köllnitz, Brandenburg, Germany (Gastrosofie). Who would have thought, as a resident of the metropolis, that so much good, true and beautiful things would happen to you at the blue hour, where fox and hare say good night to each other? The Köllnitz Nature Estate is only a few kilometers beyond Königs Wusterhausen and thus just a bit south-east of Berlin – ideal then for an exceptional excursion into the countryside.
The Naturgut is not just a house by the water. A few buildings, some of them listed, stand on extensive grounds close to Groß Schauener See, part of a lakeland, including a Heinz-Sielmann eco-exhibition, a farm shop, ahotel and a restaurant bordering the Köllnitzer „Fließ“, or streamlet, widely known as Köllnitzer Fischerstuben. A fish restaurant by tradition – now much more for the tasting as a haven for true connoisseurs of Slow Food.
It was lively on Saturday, March 11 this year, as the Naturgut Köllnitz, part of Artprojekt Nature & Nutrition GmbH, hosted its first farm-to-fork dinner. Stefan Ziegenhagen, the new chef de cuisine at Köllnitzer Fischerstuben, gave farmers and fishermen a say to explain their work in between of an eight-course menu from his field-lake-pasture-to-table kitchen so kindly served. In other words: at Köllnitz, traditional fishing and organic farming around go hand in hand fitting with upscale cuisine and newly interpreted classics of Naturgut value. You certainly can’t get good cooking any fresher and more sustainable, i.e. regional as well as seasonal.
The dishes presented and served not only looked impressive, they smelled and tasted delicious. The whole concept is Slow Food. More about that soon. Here and today the
Menu of the delicacies in Köllnitz
Homemade country bread with a spread of fermented Brussels sprouts and whipped salted butter
* * *
Potato | Brussels sprout | Walnut
Roasted potato cream, marinated Brussels sprout leaves, walnuts
* * *
Beetroot | Char | Horseradish | Dill
Marinated beetroot, smoked char, horseradish, dill vinaigrette
* * *
Köllnitzer Meadow Chicken | Leek | Nut Butter
„Snowball“ of meadow egg, braised leek, leek broth and ash, nut butter Hollandaise
* * *
Köllnitzer Brother Rooster | Spinach | Shallot
Roulade of breast, sautéed leaf spinach, shallot confit, roasted onions
* * *
Köllnitzer Pike-perch | Wild garlic | Parsnip
Homemade pike-perch raviolo, wild garlic foam, baked parsnip
* * *
Simmental pasture-raised cattle from the Busch farm
Braised cheek of pasture-raised heifer, root vegetables, roast potatoes
* * *
Carrot | Chocolate | Laurel
Homemade bay ice cream, carrot reduction, sweet carrot chips, fudge brownie
The next dates
for the „Farmer x Fisherman x Chef“ event are 22 April and 20 May 2023, when good and healthy produce from the garden, pasture and lake will be on the plate. The price of 79 euros per person, which is unbeatable for this quality, also includes house wine, house beer and water. Dazzling, but true! What was missing for Berliners and newcomers? Fox and hare on the plate (not in front of the car), but that’s for the future at
Köllnitzer Fischerstuben
Address: Große Schauener Hauptstraße 31, 15859 Storkow (Mark)
Contacts: Phone 033678 61084, Mail restaurant@koellnitz.de
Website: https://koellnitz.de/restaurant
Opening hours: Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 11 am to 5 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am to 8 pm
Remark
The above contribution by Ole Bolle was rendered into English by Christoph Merten.
