Berlin, Germany (Gastrosofie). Oh dearie dearie me, off we go with a pub quiz. Thrills right from the very beginning. What will be served for in-between? At long last the answer is revealed. With such extend that it’s hard to remember. Let’s stick to the facts then: Confit fillet of winter cod. On green pea purée. With potato and truffle ragout, fennel and colourful vegetable straw. At least it’s digestible. „Lovely and light“. A delight to some, so it seems. „The fish, gently cooked, impresses with its freshness and flavour, while the pea purée is characterised by a slight sweetness“. Says our German critic. We’ll have to believe him. Actually, he should know better. Than us.
Once again, the hosts, top restaurateurs Kolja Kleeberg and Hans-Peter Wodarz, invite guests to their dinner show at the Palazzo. Once again, it’s an exuberant feast for all the senses. In the festive Spiegelzelt (mirror tent) near Berlin’s Bahnhof Zoo. In keeping with the capital city with its many clubs, bars and pubs, the new program is named „Nachtschwärmer“ (night owls). They can do much more than just party. They offer, if we believe both – brochure and critic – from now on…: modern, breathtaking acrobatics, ultimate body art and unmistakable comedy plus great singing accompanied by a rousing live band.
„Nachtschwärmer“ is a tribute to a life between bar stools and ballads. To a night when strangers meet and stories begin, somewhere between chance and fate. Centrepiece is a bar. A place full of longing, secrets and unplanned encounters. Here, somewhere between dream and reality, they all meet: the lonesome and the lively ones, the seekers, the players, the lovers. Everyone brings a story, an attitude, a secret. And with each performance, more of this special night unfolds.
Chastity Belt, with a past, charm and a broken heart, likes to leave glasses unattended when she loses herself in daydreams again about true love as a presenter and singer. Meanwhile, her bartender Kerol uses his sense of tact and juggling skills to ensure that the place doesn’t get completely out of hand. Between cocktail shakers and beatboxing, he sets the rhythm – loud, precise and always a little faster than the rest. Aleksey Teslin, on the other hand, is the mysterious, reclusive bar patron who seems to live to his own rhythm with his diabolo.
Mario Español climbs the Chinese pole with dance-like power. He writes his story with every movement. Polina Makarova displays powerful yet graceful balancing acts with great body control and a keen sense of movement. On the flexible slack rope, it’s Tonghui Ni who thrills with impressive control, precise technique and fine balance. His performance combines classical Chinese acrobatics with clear form and focused presence.
Frédérique Cournoyer-Lessard comes across as the intellectual, introverted guest with a philosophy book in the corner. But then she takes off her glasses and shows a completely different side. Wonderful performances on the aerial hoop, poetic but also daring. Rosa Autio also brings movement to the night with her quirky charm and skilful foot juggling. Her clowning combines lightness with a touch of melancholy.
And then Yamisava’s voice rings out. Coming from the background, it suddenly fills the room – soft, deep, honest. Afro-soul that sounds like a conversation with your own soul and makes the night stand still for a moment. The singer comes from the heart of Soweto and is considered one of South Africa’s most promising voices.
With great sensitivity and a broad repertoire, „The Geschmacksverstärkers“ accompany the evening live. The musical regulars of the Berlin Palazzo provide the perfect soundtrack for an unforgettable night this season as well.
Blighty! Or pure enjoyment. For the eyes and ears. And for the palate. After all, every night owl needs a swell bellyful, if only because of the numerous drinks. Kolja Kleeberg and his team provide great grub with another fantastic menu. The starter is already spectacular. „Beetroot tartare on bulgur, served with pickled radish, sour cream and pumpernickel earth. Refreshing, spicy, with a slight heat. And a touch of sweetness, thanks to a candied orange slice. Very creative, very clever. This idea leads to a veritable feast of diverse flavours that harmonise perfectly despite their differences“. A mere starter becomes an absolute highlight, causing real enthusiasm among the guests present.
The kitchen also shows off its skills with the main course. „Two types of duck, breast and confit ragout, with Macaire potatoes, Romanesco brocoli, green asparagus and honey-rosemary jus. The breast, roasted to a pinkish-red, proves to be wonderfully tender and juicy. As does the confit ragout. Macaire, perfectly cooked and seasoned, are the ideal accompaniment for both.“
With all the calories and carbohydrates, vital vitamins are not neglected either. In addition to green asparagus, another green vegetable ensures it: Romanesco. This cone-shaped variant of cauliflower is truly one of a kind. It’s also much more appealing than its somewhat bland big brother. Both visually and in terms of taste. Smaller, more aromatic and, above all, even healthier. Originally from the Rome area, this vegetable is particularly rich in vitamin C and is considered extremely digestible.
There’s hardly any room left for dessert. „Chocolate pistachio soufflé with nougat ice cream. Delicious but heavy, if it weren’t for the spicy piña colada chilli salad. This creation, as original as it is excellent, lends the whole dish a pleasant lightness.“
Exquisite wines accompany the menu, such as the 2024 Riesling „No. 9“ from the Tina Pfaffmann winery in the Palatinate or the 2023 Magnetic Tinto from the „Torres Icons“ winery in Catalonia, Spain. Several types of beer are also available to quench your thirst. These include Paulaner Original Münchner Hell on tap, along with various soft drinks, mineral waters and coffee specialities.
Was it a successful evening? That should really be the last pub quiz question. For the answer is relatively simple: Of course!. At least it applies to members of the media who are on course.
Note:
Christoph Merten with material supplied by critic Fritz H. Köser.
